1/17/2024 0 Comments Sub ampI think you'll find the DSP amp puts out two 40W RMS channels to each driver as they're dual voice coil so that's 80W for each ( I might be incorrect on this, but it's around that power level) It means those DSP subs are rated for around that kind of power. I'd always recommend the latter solution rather than trying to 'mix' aftermarket products in the hope of making the oem speakers sound better. The downsides are that you need to keep the oem DSP amp functional along with the Monitor unit and the GPS computer unit as they all need to be connected in order for them to work - i.e you cannot remove any of them and naturally, when they do fail it's expensive to repair/replace and upgrade them. The resulting sound quality, performance and musicality will be very very good and the 'best' that can be achieved if you *must* keep the oem looks in the dash. That 'clean' signal is then input to your choice of aftermarket amplifier(s) via low level RCA and then you output from the amp(s) to upgraded 2 way component speakers in the front and 2 way co-axials on the rear shelf and a 8/10/12 inch subwoofer in a small sealed enclosure which has the sub bass 'fire' through the ski hatch of the rear seat so 100% of the bass 'flows' into the cabin. The output from the DSP amp is then fed into a signal processor and/or a signal summing device which will then 'add back up the split frequencies', remove the factory equalisation curve, boost the output voltage and very importantly, provide a clean non distorted output signal no matter how hard you push the 'weak' OEM amp into distortion. The best practice way of keeping the OEM head unit in the dash, is to retain the DSP amp but remove the OEM DSP speakers. If you only add 'bass' then you'll overwhelm the midrange and upper end of your music and it'll sound quite rubbish. Don't forget also, that you'll need to upgrade the rest of the DSP speakers as they also don't handle much RMS power and they'll be old and less capable compared to when they were new. If not, then I'd suggest either getting all the correct equipment/product now and installing it to give you what you'd like or collecting it over time and installing it later. If you are happy to do that until you can later get proper subwoofers that are capable of producing clean, musical, powerful, controlled sub bass, then all good. If you then turn the gain and the bass control right down on the aftermarket amp to 'compensate' for the low power handling of the M audio subs, you'll defeat the purpose of what you are wanting, which is more 'sub bass'. The thing is, the M audio subs only handle a nominal amount of RMS power and the amplifier you choose will be perhaps at the very least a few hundred watts RMS more. If you take the 'bass' output wires from the DSP amp, they'll be 'high level' outputs and there are amplifiers out there which accept them and then you could connect the output from the amplifier you purchase to the M audio subs. You'll not really be able to get proper 'sub bass' from the OEM M audio drivers, they aren't really all that capable for the what I think you'd like have. The M Audio subs are the 'top line' for what the E39 option list had back in 2000/2001 and even then the performance was perhaps approaching 'adequate'! Welcome to the faffing around for when keeping the OEM amp and trying to use aftermarket equipment!
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